Optimization of Rosella Extract-based Antioxidant Peel-off Mask Using Simple Lattice Design.

Abstract

<h4>Objectives</h4>The skin is highly vulnerable to damage caused by free radicals, which disrupt biological components and accelerate aging. While endogenous antioxidants provide some protection, external sources are often needed. Rosella (<i>Hibiscus sabdariffa L</i>.) is a rich source of flavonoids and astaxanthin, proven antioxidants that inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1, prevent collagen degradation, and reduce ultraviolet-induced damage. The aim of the study was to optimize the formulation of a peel-off mask, incorporating Rosella extract as an antioxidant.<h4>Materials and methods</h4>Rosella extract was analyzed using liquid chromatography-mass - mass spectrometry (LC-MS) to identify its antioxidant components. Freeze-dried Rosella powder was granulated and incorporated into a gel mask using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) or gelatin as the base polymer. Formula optimization was conducted using simplex lattice design and evaluated for physical properties, antioxidant activity, and stability.<h4>Results</h4>LC-MS analysis detected astaxanthin, quercetin, rutin, and kaempferol in Rosella extract. Granulated Rosella exhibited good flowability and a particle size distribution of 250-425 μm. The optimized formula was PVA-based, containing 12.5% PVA and 7.5% propylene glycol. The product demonstrated desirable physical properties, including a drying time of 5.29 minutes, a pH of 5.32, a spreadability of 5.34 cm, an adhesivity of 6.86 seconds, and a viscosity of 30,658 cP. Stability tests confirmed the formula remained stable for 3 months, under room temperature, freeze-thaw cycles, and centrifugation. The final product, containing 15% Rosella, exhibited 45.33% antioxidant activity.<h4>Conclusion</h4>The PVA-based Rosella peel-off mask demonstrated optimal physical properties, stability, and antioxidant properties, offering a promising approach to incorporating antioxidants into cosmetic formulations.